| Bugaboo Rock
Snowpatch Spire 3063m
Bugaboo Spire 3176m
The Approach
West Ridge of Crescent Spire
Bugaboo Trip 1998
Bugaboo Gallery
NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire
Kain Route
Clean and Dirty
Favorite Links Page
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Crescent Spire is a great option for the day you arrive.
Good planning will always leave you with a climb in the same day you approach the hut. Crescent Spire is about one hour approach. Maybe a bit more, depending on conditions. Many options unfold here, McTeck area or Crescent Towers and the Donkey Ears. We chose the West Ridge of Crescent Spire II 5.3 150+ meters. The rest of the ridge is a scramble to the top. Great views off both sides of this small but challenging peak.
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Mcteck Area/Crescent Spire, Crescent Towers, Brenta Spire(back).
Crescent Glacier, in dry conditions, most years this glacier would be all snow. The west ridge would follow a ramp looking line, right below the Col of Bugaboo and Crescent, seen above in the photo. |
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The moraine is always a grunt, after eating a big lunch.
Josee and I finished up some soup, sandwiches and juice for lunch. We thought we would check out to make sure everything was working in the hut. We put on our harnesses, tied up the ropes for carrying, and took very minimal gear. Small day packs for the couple hours we will be away. The hike up the moraine is slippery. The granite pebbles move like marbles under the foot on the steeper parts. Once above the moraine, the Applebee dome comes into view.
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Don’t be fooled by the snow on the Crescent Glacier, I have seen this Glacier bone dry from snow, and there are quite large cracks in the ice. There is a good chance in the later part of summer to fall into a crack on this glacier. Walking around on this piece of ice is so wild; a wall of granite soars all around, jabbing through the ice like it was paper.
Crack climbing in Yosemite Valley can be the ultimate dream of a lifetime, come have a look and see for yourself.
Crack Climbing in Yosemite Valley, CA
Rock climbing in Smith Rocks OR, Volcanic Tuff.
Josee and I spent a couple of weeks in Smith rocks, climbing some really great knobs and cracks. Check out some really cool spots to climb at the following link. Thanks
Smith Rocks Oregon : Rock Climbing
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Kelly Leading the crux of the West Ridge, Killer eh! 5.3
From the Applebee dome, walk towards Bugaboo spire. Up and over a pile of rock debris, leads you to the tongue of the Crescent Glacier. Up the glacier to the base of the Col., we kick steps up the snow cone that starts the beginning of the climb. Three pitches of slab climbing on 5.3 terrain brings you to the top of the Col. the rest of the ridge to the summit is made up of rocks.
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Josee, Kelly Summit of Crescent Spire.
A great place to be on the arrival day. Three hours from the hut, and sitting on the first peak of the weekend. Rap the same route and home the same way. Maybe this time we will walk down the glacier towards Bugaboo / Snowpatch col, hang a left there and down and out. |
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